Why Naples IS worth visiting
Ah, Naples. The Mezzogiorno. Brimming with vibrant energy, charming chaos, raw Italian culture and tattered beauty. The home of the pizza. The capital of Campagna and 90 minutes from the world renowned CostieraAmalfitana. A melting pot of Arabic, Greek, Spanish and Italian architecture and heritage. So, why is it that no-one wants to visit this alluring UNESCO world heritage sight?
A short 5 minute stint in the arrivals hall of Naples airport will give you a clue. The numerous warnings about not using fake taxis and only using the registered ones found in the official taxi rank hints at the criminal underbelly, existing just out of sight of tourists. This doesn't do much to quell my anxieties about visiting this city, having heard countless stories of pickpockets and thieves riding around on mopeds, picking bags off the backs of unsuspecting visitors. Travellers underlined to me the importance of keeping your phone zipped away and not carrying it in your hand, as well as wearing a backpack that buckles across the chest to reduce the risk of being robbed. I'd also read that it was of paramount importance to leave all jewellery and watches behind so as to avoid looking like a target for theft.
But as I had an appointment at the Consulate in Naples, I didn't have much choice but to go and see what the stories were about. And here is what I discovered.
What I stumbled upon was a grand, historic town, a cultural hybrid that encompasses some of the best of the Italian way of life today. The locals, while seemingly disorderly, if their driving is any indication, are incredibly warm and welcoming. The bourgeois areas of Chiaia and Mergellina are spotlessly clean with prim, painted mediterranean buildings, housing some delicious restaurants. In Mergellina, we tried our first pizza at 50 Kalo and it was certainly worth the trip. The promenade, which links the two towns, is set back slightly from the road and makes for a safe and scenic walk in what is, otherwise, a busy and chaotic city.
We also ventured out to the Spanish Quarters, which are supposed to be one of the more authentic, and dangerous, areas of Naples. There is no denying that this area is dirtier and feels more dangerous. Bins overflowed with trash and graffiti marked most buildings. But behind the trash and graffiti are some beautiful buildings with such character and history. There is no doubting the authenticity of this area, with the locals shouting across the street at each other, lines of laundry connecting apartments and the crumbling buildings. It's gritty and it's real, unlike the typically demure and well maintained tourists spots.
This is exactly what I found so endearing about Naples. The dirty and chaotic first impression hides a colourful and exciting city with so much to see and do... if you are prepared to accept the turmoil of the city and it's people. Still, for every criminal, piece of trash or graffiti, there are a thousand more kind people and beautiful buildings.
This is not to dismiss entirely the dangers that do exist in Naples. Petty theft is common so it is certainly wise to take some precautions. I kept my phone and jewellery at home which did make me feel safer than I expected. However, watching the local Neapolitan people go about their day wearing jewellery and carrying phones in their hands made me wonder if my ideas were excessive. Nonetheless, I am of the belief that it is always better to be safe than sorry!
There is no prouder Italian to be found than a Neapolitan. After a particularly bumpy approach to Naples Airport, we arrived to chants of Forza Napoli. And perhaps this pride is warranted. Perhaps there really is nowhere else in the world quite like Napoli. And, perhaps, this is exactly why it is worth visiting.